After surviving the night at James Mackay campsite in a rat chewed tent, I stuffed my severely damaged near-new tent into my pack along with my rat nibbled food packets and set off towards the West Coast. Wondering what drama this day would bring, I imbibed the change in bush and surroundings. The bush was dripping with lushness and vibrancy and the air was saturated with birdsong. Tūī shimmied metres ahead of me and a kererū’s shimmering plummage sat poised adjacent to the track. As I strode through, the bush was alive, constantly charming me. It was on this day that I walked across the two brand new bridges on the track, which had only recently been opened after severe flooding had wiped out the two previous bridges over the Heaphy and Lewis rivers. I grabbed a few photos for the engineers in the family and continued on my way.
For night 3 of my hike I had booked a hut! What luxury. If you were going to stay in a DOC (Department of Conservation) Hut in New Zealand, the Heaphy Hut would be one to prioritise. Alongside the Heaphy River and a wild West Coast beach, with a green lawn spread out before a sweeping deck, the hut has impressive views and a well equipped kitchen. It seemed the only drawback was the ravenous sandflies that swarmed around any bare skin. Disappointingly, nothing dramatic happened on day 3. I enjoyed not having to erect my hole-y tent and nabbed a bunk bed right by the window which meant that I not only had a brilliant outlook, but also had direct access to fresh air in a stuffy packed dorm room.
Day 4 began leisurely, I had only a few hours walk along the coast to my final campsite, so there was no rush to get going. I dunked myself briefly in the swiftly flowing Heaphy River, pleased to clean away sweat and dirt from the last few days. I sorted through my reduced food rations and was relieved that I’d have enough to last me the rest of the hike. I still had a huge bag of nuts and was savouring some banana chips. By mid-morning, I was packed up and ready to leave. My togs were drying on a rack and I was munching on nuts to carry me through the first couple of hours of walking. Admiring the view from the hut, my pack next to me, I’d left my treasured banana chips a mere metre from where I stood.
Suddenly a cheeky weka (large flightless native bird) grabbed my bag of banana chips and tore down the deck and across the grass. Startled, I chased after the mischevious bird, yelling and racing backwards and fowards across the lawn, before it darted into some bushes. Disrupted by the commotion, another hiker came and joined me in my pursuit. The weka emerged from the bush and I recommenced my chase. The bold bird was immediately in front of me, I was ready to pounce and then I froze, not sure how to approach the weka to retrieve my beloved banana chips. Under cover of another bush, I never saw my banana chips again and halted my pursuit. Amusingly, I also found a plastic bag with toothpaste in it in the same bush. This cunning weka and its crew were obviously well-practiced at stealing plastic enclosed treasures from hapless hikers.
I laughed heartedly about this experience, amused at the wildlife who had staked claims at my food over the past few days. With an even lighter pack, I sauntered along the coast, glad to be by the ocean and enthralled by the continuous nīkau palms that fringed the coastline. This section of the coast has its own micro-climate, an almost sub-tropical feel that is unique to this area. I spent the final evening at Scotts Beach, reconnecting with others I had not seen since earlier in the hike, who had stayed at alternative huts and campsites along the way. The sunset was stunning, the waves treacherous and the companionship warm. I even managed to fortuitously arrange for a stranger to deliver some groceries to me at the end of the track to supply the next few days where I’d be carless at a West Coast campsite.
The final day of the Heapy Track included a mere one hour stroll to the track end, where this adventure and story ends. I survived to tell this comical tale. It would have been rather boring without the helicopter, rat and weka wouldn’t it?!
Until the next adventre, arohanui, lots of love
Aleisha
Fabulous adventure.
I raced through the lines chasing the weka!! Thanks Aleisha for sharing your New Year adventure with us